Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Cause to Celebrate

I'm still getting used to the holiday system in Germany.

Well, to be fair, I had gotten it pretty well down in Hamburg, then we moved here. Each state in Germany can determine its holidays and, being a largely Catholic state, Bavaria has many more than what I'm used to.

Poster in the window of a nearby Euro store
But today is a national holiday in Germany. And not because it's Halloween.

Although each year I see more decorations available in the stores over here, costumes for kids and adults focus on the traditional, scary Halloween memes, and trick-or-treating is rare. Also, while Halloween is a big enterprise in the U.S., it's not even an official holiday at home.

Pastries in a local bakery this morning
included these cute vampire pumpkins (?)
No, today's holiday marks the 500th anniversary of the Reformation (normally it's only celebrated in the highly Protestant areas in north/eastern Germany).

And tomorrow is another holiday here in Bavaria: All Saints Day.

I'm in the Halloween-has-pagan-origins camp, so I find it amusing that these different celebrations are colliding over this two-day period.

Growing up, I went to Sunday school and vacation Bible school and sang in the church choir. These days, I may not practice a particular religion or Christian sect, but I find their departures of belief fascinating.

Each holiday here offers an opportunity for educating myself further, and naturally I've been seeing a lot about Martin Luther leading up to today. Being me, of course I'm much more interested in the quirky stories.

Speaking of quirky, this Martin Luther
bobblehead on eBay was apparently a
Milwaukee Admirals hockey game
giveaway, and listed as a "Great
way to celebrate the 500th anniversary
of the Reformation!!!" Wow.
I found this list by The Local--12 Surprising Facts You Didn't Know About Martin Luther--to be the best balance of talking about his impact, and his humanity.

And while I'm not going to do a deep-dive into the world of beatification tomorrow, I am going to explore a bit what All Saints Day means here in Bavaria.


From the blog Catholic Icing. Nuff said.
So whatever your holiday inclination this week--affirm, exalt, invoke, or indulge--be sure to enjoy yourself. 

Then rest up, because it's only 24 days till Black Friday and 55 days till Christmas... 










Sunday, October 22, 2017

Weathering Change

Last week, I touched on my adventures in my first six months in Munich. Unfortunately, the past several months have also brought about some tragic events as well.

I lived in the San Francisco Bay Area for 12 years—three times longer than anywhere else I’ve lived. Seeing the ongoing wildfires devastate areas that feel like home is heartbreaking.

In college, I did a summer semester in Barbados and Puerto Rico. Watching the wonderful people of Puerto Rico agonize over the most basic necessities in the wake of Hurricane Maria is also distressing.

A friend in California asked about similar disasters over here. Until his question, and reports that Hurricane Ophelia was headed for Ireland, I hadn’t thought much about natural disasters in Europe at large--or Germany in particular--outside of fires and flooding.

So, I decided to check it out.

Germany is one of the largest countries in Europe, yet it’s only 8/10 the size of just 1 of the 50 U.S. states. Still, it has a pretty diverse disaster ecosystem.

Blizzards

Climbers clear snow from the FC Bayern stadium in Munich
Germany is no stranger to snowstorms, but in recent years things have been kicking it up a notch. 

December 2010 was the 4th coldest in Germany in 120 years, and dumped record snowfall on the country. 

In 2013, an unexpected storm buried parts of Germany and nearby countries to the south under 35 cm (nearly 14 in) of snow on the first day. 

In January this year, the storm known as Axel caused heavy flooding in the north and heavy snow in the south. And when we moved to Munich in April, it was 25°C (80°F) our first weekend, and snowing two weeks later. Who knows what this winter will bring?

Cyclones/Hurricanes/Typhoons

One thing I’ve noticed is that instead of always categorizing natural events over here, many times they're just called “Storm” X. 

Like Storm Andrea in 2012, which damaged part of Munich’s English Garden. Or Storm Niklas in 2015, said to be one of the strongest storms in recent history, with winds peaking at 152 km/hr (93 mph). The storm brought flooding, stranded thousands of air and train passengers, and killed seven people.

Drought

Germany is also no stranger to drought. The most severe to date is said to have been in 1959-60, while a drought during the 1970s was the longest. Other major drought periods include part of the 1990s, 2003, and 2015. The one silver lining to the most recent droughts is they have unearthed archaeological finds--former villages, war remnants, etc.

Earthquake activity in and bordering Germany

Earthquakes

In terms of plate tectonics, Germany sits in the middle of the Eurasian shelf, so most earthquakes that strike are low magnitude. 

That being said, the most recent high-magnitude quake occurred in Roermond in 1992, weighing in at 5.9, with aftershocks continuing for 6 weeks. 

The worst earthquake in central European history was in 1356 in Basel, Switzerland, which sits on the border with France and Germany. It measured somewhere around 6.6 and is estimated to have killed unknown thousands in all three countries.

Floods

Fire and flood are certainly two tools that have helped shape European history. Nearly every city I’ve visited in Germany so far has a flood story (or two). 

The worst in the country’s history took place in December 1287 in East Frisia. At least 30 villages were lost and 50-80,000 people in Germany and the Netherlands died in the so-called St. Lucia’s Flood.

Hailstorms

In July 1984, a storm unleashed tennis-ball-sized hail over Munich. It was the largest loss event in German insurance history. Cars that weren’t repaired after the storm were said to be of “Munich design.”

Tornadoes

300 tornados reportedly hit Europe every year, which is a lot, but less than a third of the U.S. annual average. Still, in 2015, Germany had an “outbreak” of tornados across the country. And one was reported in Hamburg this year shortly before we moved down here.

Eifel lakes formed from volcanoes

Volcanoes

Germany might not pop up first on your list of places with volcanoes, but the Eifel region in the mid-western part of the country is full of them. They’re considered inactive, but not extinct.

Wildfires

Sadly, like most places, few forest fires in Germany are caused by natural causes (i.e., lightning). The largest known forest fire in Germany happened in 1975 on the Lüneburg Heath in Saxony. About 29 square miles burned, and 5 firefighters lost their lives.

Looking at all of these events made me realize how much of a bubble I lived in. Not just in the U.S., where our outward-looking scope tends to be a bit narrow and self-serving.

I've also been in a bubble over here about some things, especially when my lack of fluency has made it easy to disassociate myself from radio or TV.

So, this week I downloaded a German location-based app that provides alerts from government agencies. This way I can stay on top of what’s happening in my area. And I've vowed to make my periodic skimming of local news a bit more regular (and a bit more substantive). 

I've also taken steps to up my volunteer game--not necessarily in disaster relief, but in some form of humanitarian aid.

In the meantime, my thoughts and best wishes are with the survivors of this year’s recent disasters, particularly in Florida, Texas, California, the Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.

And on this side of the world, survivors in France (forest fires), Greece (earthquake), Italy (earthquake), Portugal (forest fires), Russia (hurricane), Spain (forest fires), Switzerland (landslide), Turkey (earthquake), and the U.K. (hurricane).

Whether or not the increased intensity and frequency of these events is due to climate change is a topic for another discussion. But with Mother Nature working so hard against us, we do need to put aside some of the pettiness and apathy and work together for the good of all of us.







Monday, October 16, 2017

Reflections on Half a Year in Munich

I find it hard to believe we’ve already been living in Munich for six months! 

In some ways it feels like we’ve always been here, and in others it’s like we stepped off the train yesterday.

Our too-brief time in Hamburg taught me to take full advantage of the opportunities offered around me. 

So I thought I’d share some stats and, of course, some pictures from my first six months in Bavaria.

Since moving here in April, I have:

Done a Munich walking tour (twice) and a biking tour

Here I am with my good friends Amanda and Anne on a recent biking tour. If I can find a good cruiser seat for Betty like the one I had on the tour, I might get more into this biking thing!


Visited 13 Munich museums or special exhibits

My favorite museum to date is the Glyptothek--a collection of ancient statuary












The Toy Museum gets a nod
for its creepy display
of disassembled teddy bears




A cool statue in the Bavarian National Museum.
That's right, she's made of WOOD













The coolest non-museum display
I've seen was The Art of the
Street exhibit. Graffiti/street artists
showing off their incredible talent!


The Egyptian Art Museum gets the creativity prize for using hieroglyphs to explain the museum rules.




























Visited 13 other Munich sightseeing attractions (including Dachau)

Blutenberg Palace, complete with small moat, was hosting an art exhibit and a wine festival the day I visited

The lovely Botanical Gardens are next door to my favorite Munich attraction, the Nymphenburg Palace.


Visited the 3 remaining city gates, 4 aesthetically exceptional churches, and 4 craft or folk fairs in Munich


Asamkirche is not very large, but makes up for its size by its extravagance.





In May we attended Munich's first-ever Craft Beer Festival.
(I'll write more about German beer and its purity laws in a future post.)

Been to the top of two different towers for panoramic city views

The view from the Olympic Tower is nice...
...but I've climbed the tower of St. Peter's Church three times, and the view over the older part of Munich is even nicer.
On my latest climb, the late-afternoon/early-evening  haze cleared for a great view of the Alps!


Experienced Oktoberfest

The first time I saw this car, we were on our way to Oktoberfest. My first thought was "oh, security back-up."
Then I did a double-take.























Hiked in the Bavarian Alps

A statue outside the Alpine Museum in Munich
(haven't visited this museum yet)


Hosted my family and five best friends from college

On Marienbruecke just outside
Neuschwanstein Castle, 1976


On Marienbruecke just outside
Neuschwanstein Castle, 2017



It's nearly impossible to get pictures of my dad, so we were happy that BMW World gave us ample opportunities

Family selfie!



And here we are in downtown Munich
for our (on average) biennial reunion

I could do a whole separate blog
about the L-Mates and our
28-year friendship! Here we are
as college freshman in our dorm lobby
on Valentine's Day in 1990

Visited 14 other cities (including Landshut and Hanau)

Ulm is Albert Einstein's birthplace,
and home to the world's tallest church steeple.














So naturally I climbed it!











During my family's stay, we went to Berchestgaden and visited a Nazi bunker and Hitler's Eagle's Nest

Visited 4 other countries


You can check out pictures from my May trip to Venice in this post.

You can check out pictures from my July vacation in Malta in this post.


Like Malta, the primary purpose of our September getaway to Mallorca was the beach, but on a day when the weather turned unfriendly, we ditched the sand and visited some nearby prehistoric caves.


With my family I hit three different cities in Austria:
Innsbruck (famous golden roof shown here)...

...the nearby town of Wattens, where we visited
the Swarovski Crystal World...



...and Salzburg, where we explored the town a little before heading up to explore the fortress.


My local bucket list is much shorter now, but my vision is long. I’m looking forward to the next six months of adventures!


Tuesday, October 3, 2017

Oktoberfest


Well, I had to interrupt my brief break between visitors and do a post, because today is the last day of Oktoberfest 2017. 
My favorite mobile
game got in the spirit
with their most
recent theme.

It’s also a holiday—German Unity Day—which means everything’s closed except for restaurants and some attractions (like Oktoberfest!).

Although Munich has been celebrating the marriage of Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen for the past 207 years, this was my first time experiencing the event.

So here are a few pictures from our Oktoberfest expedition during my family’s recent visit. 

First impression? Oktoberfest is a lot different than I expected—very family-friendly, like the world’s largest beer-drinking carnival.

Just as important as beer is the food.
Ox is traditional, wurst is everywhere,
but most places serve you a 1/2 chicken along with your beer.

We went on the day the Bavarian bands gave a traditional concert at the base of the Bavaria statue. The brass bands were great, and there were also some singing and dancing performances. 



But what we were really waiting for 
were the Alpine horns. Awesome!

Afterwards, all of the bands marched through the fair grounds.






Many of the halls had their beer wagons and horse teams out on display.

Just because the event caters a lot to families doesn’t mean that we didn't see plenty of public drunkenness, a bit of public urination, elbow-to-elbow crowds, and a police report of a couple leaving their baby behind at the grounds.

My parents at Oktoberfest in 1978.
Back then, the focus was
beer tents and Bratwurst.
My parents at Oktoberfest in 2017.
They were amazed at the difference
in atmosphere.
Oktoberfest etiquette: don't grab the handle,
and don't call it a Stein of beer. It's a Maβ.









Now I understand why folks might go back for multiple days over the three-week run.

I’m looking forward to multiple visits myself next year, by which time I might have broken down and gotten myself a Dirndl😊

Prost!